Carport Kit FAQs: Everything You Need to Know

You can request a quote by clicking the link on the right-hand side of our website or by visiting the dedicated carport quote page. We will review your requirements and send a customized quote back to you as soon as possible.

Simply complete the order form and return it to us along with a signed copy of the terms and conditions and a copy of your deposit receipt. Once received, we will immediately begin processing your order.

To accurately process your order, you must provide the full site address and the Lot & Plan number of your property, which can usually be found on your rates notice. You also need to specify the carport dimensions (width, length, and height), your chosen colours for the various components, and your footing type (posts in the ground, embedded brackets, or footing plates).

The average delivery timeframe is 5 to 6 weeks. This timeline covers most standard orders, though it can vary based on current manufacturing demand, the time of year, or any non-standard custom design requirements. We endeavor to provide an accurate timeframe and keep you updated if anything changes.

No, they are manufactured at the nearest partner plant in your specific city or state and delivered directly from there. Our national steel agreements enable us to do this, saving you time and money for delivery.

Yes, our national contracts with steel suppliers allow us to deliver directly to most metro and regional areas across Australia. If your property is located outside a main supplier’s standard delivery zone, alternative delivery options are still available.

Yes, the vast majority of carport kits in Australia require formal council approval or a building permit before construction can begin. Carports are classified under the National Construction Code as Class 10a buildings. Because they are open-sided, they carry a lower fire risk than fully enclosed sheds, which allows for specific exemptions depending on your state and local council regulations.

Below is a state-by-state guide to carport permit requirements and exemptions:

New South Wales (NSW): Carports may be constructed as exempt development (no permit required) if they meet strict criteria. The floor area must not exceed 20 m² on lots of 300 m² or less, 25 m² on standard lots over 300 m² (in other zones), or 50 m² in rural and R5 residential zones. The structure must not exceed 3 m in height above existing ground level (or the roof gutter line if attached to a single-storey dwelling). Additionally, at least two sides and one-third of the total perimeter must remain completely open.

Queensland (QLD): Almost all standard carports require council approval in Queensland. Exemptions only apply to structures smaller than 10 m², under 2.4 m in maximum height (with an average height of 2.1 m), and shorter than 5 m on any side. The carport must also be open on at least two sides. Because a standard single carport usually measures 3m x 5m or larger, it will generally trigger the need for a permit.
Victoria (VIC): Under the Victorian Building Authority (VBA) and the Building Regulations 2018, regulations mirror Queensland’s strict sizing limits. A building permit is required unless the carport has a floor area under 10 m², is less than 3 m high, and is not located further forward than the front wall of the existing building.

South Australia (SA): While a carport may be classified as “accepted development” (exempt from planning consent) if it is under 40 m² and built behind the primary street building line, it will almost always require building consent. Complete exemption from all approvals in SA is only granted for structures 15 m² or smaller with a maximum height of 2.5 m.

Western Australia (WA): Building permits are required for carports unless the structure has a floor area of 10 m² or less, is no more than 2.4 m high, and is located outside of cyclonic wind regions (Regions C and D). Because standard carports exceed 10 m², permits are virtually always necessary.
Tasmania (TAS): The Consumer, Building and Occupational Services (CBOS) classifies the construction of standard carports as “Low Risk Work.” This means you generally do not need a building permit to erect a carport kit, though you may still require local planning approval depending on the property’s zoning and boundary setbacks.

Australian Capital Territory (ACT): Carports are considered exempt from building approval if they have no walls, a roof area of no more than 25 m², a maximum height of 3 m, and an unsupported frame span of 4 m or less.

Northern Territory (NT): There are no building permit exemptions for carports in the Northern Territory. Regardless of size, all carport structures require formal building approval before installation can commence.

Yes, all Excalibur carport kits are fully engineered to comply with the Australian Wind Code AS1170 for all wind regions across Australia. This encompasses regions A0, A1-5, B1, B2, C, and cyclonic region D. The structural engineering also explicitly accounts for Terrain Categories TC1, TC2, TC2.5, and TC3, covering both shielded and non-shielded site factors to ensure maximum structural integrity regardless of your location.

Every Excalibur carport kit includes comprehensive, site-specific engineering documentation required for your local council or private certifier approvals. In addition to full architectural drawings and engineering calculations, you will receive the mandated statutory certification for your specific state:
Queensland (QLD): Signed Form 15.
New South Wales (NSW): Signed Engineer’s Letter.
Victoria (VIC): Signed Certificate of Compliance.
South Australia (SA): Signed Certificate or Engineer’s Letter.
Western Australia (WA): Signed Engineer’s Letter.

Yes, our structures are rigorously designed to meet strict Australian building codes and manufacturing standards. The structural designs incorporate and comply with AS 1111.1, AS/NZS 1163, AS/NZS 1170.0, AS/NZS 1170.1, AS/NZS 1170.2, AS/NZS 1170.4, AS 1252, AS/NZS 1554, AS 2870, AS 3600, AS 4100, AS/NZS 4600, AS/NZS 4671, and AS/NZS 4680.

No, fitting a roller or panel door will not comply with the standard design or engineering. Carports are designed and engineered as freestanding, open-sided structures. Adding walls or roller doors changes the way the structure behaves in the wind and adds a dead load by itself. Modifying the structure for these additions requires extra costs and design fees, which may make it uneconomical to do.

No, enclosing a wall or walls on your carport is not designed for in the engineering. It changes the structure from being fully open (roof only) to partially open, which drastically affects the wind loading on the structure.

Yes, common requests such as different sizes can be catered for easily. However, highly customized requests—such as adding unsupported overhangs—involve extra processes and costs. While overhangs can be engineered for certain skillion carports, engineers generally discourage them due to the increased structural load.

Overhangs are available on certain carport types depending on the size, height, local wind region, and engineering. On skillion carports, we can do overhangs along the span of the structure. On gable carports, we can provide eaves (side overhangs) in some circumstances. Overhangs on hip roof and Dutch gable designs are significantly more tricky to do.

You can choose from the full range of Colorbond carport colours, as well as Zincalume if you wish.

Carport heights are normally specified by the eave height (the clearance height to the top or underside of the eave beam). To calculate the maximum height at the apex for a gable, hip, or Dutch gable roof, you need to multiply half the width of the carport by the standard rise per metre for your chosen roof pitch, then add that number to your eave height. Standard rises per metre are:
2 Degrees: 35mm per metre
5 Degrees: 88mm per metre
10 Degrees: 176mm per metre
15 Degrees: 264mm per metre
20 Degrees: 352mm per metre
Example for a 6m wide carport with a 20-degree pitch and 2.4m eave height: 352mm (for 20 degrees) x 3m (half the width) = 1056mm (1.056m). 2.4m + 1.056m = 3.456m to the apex. (Always allow an extra 50-60mm on average for the roof sheet and ridge capping).

There are two options for anchoring your carport:
1. Concreting the posts directly into the ground (this is the preferred method).
2. Using footing plates to mount the carport onto existing concrete.

In most cases, the answer is no. To bolt to an existing slab, you must be in a low wind region (cyclonic wind regions are not allowed), have a maximum carport height of about 3m, and have at least the equivalent of a footing under each post and footing plate. A normal 100mm driveway slab is insufficient. We highly recommend concreting the posts into the ground by cutting squares into the concrete, drilling holes, and setting the posts, as this method is usually stronger, better looking, and more economical.

This depends on the size and height of the carport, the post size, the engineering, and the wind region. Common hole diameters are 350mm and 450mm wide, with depths starting at 700mm and going to 1200mm and more.

Yes. When you receive a quote, the default configuration is to concrete the posts into the ground. Extra length is allowed to do this in accordance with the engineering.

In most cases, posts are near the corner, but not right in the corners. They typically sit against the inside edge of the frame, usually 64mm to 76mm in from the outside edge of the frame to the outside edge of the post (with exceptions for overhangs).

Timber posts cannot be used as they will not comply with the engineering. However, some people have veneered the posts afterwards with a thin layer of timber to give the look of timber with the strength of steel.

While one person can physically install a smaller carport kit, having a team of two to three people is highly recommended for safety and efficiency. Larger or taller carports will require extra hands to lift heavy beams and may necessitate the use of hired equipment, such as a mobile scaffold or scissor lift, to ensure a safe build.

Standard installations require basic hand and power tools, including a tape measure, spirit level, string line, cordless drill or screw gun, spanners or sockets (for nuts and bolts), left and right-handed tin snips, a rivet gun, caulking gun, drill bits, a ladder, a square, and personal protective equipment (earmuffs, safety glasses, and gloves). Taller carports will also require a mobile scaffold or scissor lift.

Yes, all structural posts and steel frames arrive pre-cut, pre-drilled, and pre-punched to simplify the installation process. Roof sheets are cut to length, though specific designs (like hip roofs and Dutch gables) will require some angle cutting on-site for the hips and infill sheets. Flashings and guttering are supplied cut to approximate lengths, requiring final trimming and folding during installation.

Here is what you get with your carport kit:
Full site-specific engineering and drawings, designed to your local wind codes.
A complete kit with everything included—posts, frame, roof, flashings, guttering, downpipes, and fasteners.
A kit that is largely cut to size and pre-punched, saving you time drilling holes or cutting steel.
A complete parts list and step-by-step instruction manual to assist with the installation.
Technical phone support for any questions you may have.

Your supply-only kit includes all structural components necessary to erect the carport: the steel framing, posts, roof sheets, fixings, guttering, and downpipes. You will only need to supply the concrete for the structural footings and the tools required for assembly.

Our carport frames are manufactured exclusively from 100% Australian BlueScope steel. All roof sheets, guttering, and flashings are also made from genuine Australian Colorbond steel.

Your carport is backed by robust guarantees from BlueScope Steel, offering material warranties of up to 20+ years depending on your location and environment, alongside up to a 20-year warranty against paint flaking and chipping for all Colorbond components.

No, Excalibur carport kits are designed and engineered strictly as freestanding structures. Attaching the carport to a house fascia or wall will compromise both the structural engineering certification of the kit and the structural integrity of your existing home.

Your carport materials will be safely and professionally unloaded via a crane mounted on the delivery truck. Deliveries require adequate site access for either a flatbed/fixed body truck (in metro areas) or a semi-trailer (in regional areas). We strongly recommend having someone on-site to meet the driver and direct the placement of the materials.

If a component is missing, contact us promptly so we can coordinate with our suppliers to dispatch the missing item immediately. If any parts arrive damaged, take clear photos and send them to us; we will use these to request a free replacement from the supplier on your behalf.