Questions on DIY Carports and Carport Kits

How can I get a quote for DIY carport?

Simply click on the link on the right hand side of the page or go the carport quote page, and will send you back  a quote on your carport as soon as we can

What Do I Get With My Carport Kit?

Here’s what you get with your carport kit:

  • Full Site Specific Engineering & drawings, designed to your local wind codes
  • A Complete Kit which means everything is included – posts, frame, roof, flashings, guttering, downpipes and fasteners
  • A carport kit that is largely cut to size and pre punched – which means you only pay for what you need and it saves time installing, because you are not having to drill holes or cut steel.
  • A complete parts list and step by step instruction manual to assist with the installation
  • Technical Phone Support for any questions you may have

How do I  order my carport kit?

It’s a straight forward process. Simply fill in the order form and send it back, together with a signed copy of the terms and condtions, and a copy of the receipt for the deposit and we can get the order started.

What information will I need to order my Carport Kit?

To order your carport kit you will need to know the following:
  • Full site address plus Lot & Plan number of your property (usually found on your rates notice)
  • Carport type and size dimensions: Width, Length and Height
  • Colours for the various parts – if you are unsure we have diagrams available to help you
  • Footing type whether it is posts in the ground, embedded brackets or footing plates – this is largely already determined on your quote

Do the carports get sent from where you are based to all around Australia?

No, they are manufactured at the nearest plant in your city or state, then delivered. Our national steel agreements enable us to do this, saving you time and money for delivery.

Can you deliver direct to me?

Because of the national contracts we have in place with our suppliers of steel etc. we can deliver to most metro and regional areas in Australia. If you live outside a delivery area of the main supplier,  there are still options available to get your carport kit delivered to you. Contact us if you are unsure.

Can I get the engineering with my carport kit?

Unless specifically requested by the customer, all of our carports include the engineering form/letter and drawings. We always recommend that should have the required engineering with your carport kit.

How long does it take for my carport kit to be delivered?

On average, if you allowed about 5 to 6 weeks, this would cover most cases, however it depends on several factors such as current demand, time of year, and any individual requirements of a particular carport  eg. non-standard design work etc. We endevour to give you an accurate time frame and keep you in touch along the way if anything changes.

Do I need to get Council approval?

In most cases you will need approval from your council before you can build your carport. It is recommended that you talk with either your local council or private certifier before proceeding.

Can I Put a Roller Door on the Front of the Carport?

Another common question. In simple terms, fitment of a roller or panel door will not comply with the design or engineering. Have we heard of people doing it, yes we have. They have fitted it after the fact. So it is entirely up to you. But you need to be aware that it not compliant.

Carports are designed and engineered as freestanding, open sided structures. As such the engineering does not allow for walls or roller doors to be added. This is because it changes the way the structure behaves in the wind, as well as a dead load by itself.  It may be possible to add a roller door, but bear in mind there would be extra costs and design fees involved, which may make it uneconomical to do.

Can I enclose a wall in the carport?

Similar question as above, to fitting roller doors. Enclosing a wall or walls on your carport is not something that has been designed for in the engineering. It changes the structure from being full open (roof only) to partially open. This affects the wind loading on it.

What colours can I choose from?

We think people should have choices, so with your DIY carport you can choose from the full range of Colorbond carport colours as well as Zincalume if you wish.

Can you do custom sizes and designs?

A lot of things are possible, but bear in mind that there are extra processes and costs involved when a carport is a long way ‘out of the box’  as they say. Common requests are different sizes, which can be catered for pretty well. However one design request sometimes is for overhangs, which can be done for some skillion carports, but is generally discouraged by engineers because of the increased load this places on the structure. Again it may be able to be done, depending on your budget.

There is quite a range of sizes and designs already available that will suit most cases. The range of carports have been carefully designed so that you get a carport that is strong, meets standards, and also look the part with your house. All this means added value to you and  your home.

How do I anchor my carport kit?

There are 2 options –
1. Concreting the posts into the ground directly. This is the preferred method.
2. Using footing plates to mount the carport onto existing concrete. However, there are limitations – see next question below.

Can the posts be bolted to an existing slab

This is a common question we get. As mentioned above, there are conditions, and in most cases the answer is usually no. This is due to several reasons.

To bolt to an existing slab you need to have the following:

  • Be in a low wind region. Cyclonic wind regions are not allowed.
  • A maximum carport height of about 3m, as a general rule of thumb.
  • Have enough concrete and footing under the post and footing plate to fix to. You must have at least the equivalent of a footing under each post. A normal 100mm driveway or slab will not do. Also, where existing concrete has been put down in the past, an engineer may be required to certify the concrete itself, to confirm it is suitable.

We highly recommend concreting the posts into the ground as this method is usually stronger, better looking and more economical to do. Plus, if you do it as per the engineer’s documentation, it has the best chance of being structurally sound. If this sounds hard, don’t worry, the solution is usually simple. Cut out some squares in the concrete, drill some holes and concrete the posts into the ground. Before you say, cutting concrete is easier than you think. You can hire a concrete cutter or get someone to do it for you. Posts into ground is the best option anyway.  

How big would the footings be to concrete the posts into the ground?

This depends on the size and height of the carport, the size of post, engineering and wind region.
Common hole diameters are 350mm and 450mm wide. Hole depth can start at 700mm deep and go to 1200mm deep and more.

Do the posts come longer in the kit when they are concreted into the ground?

Yes. When you receive a quote on a carport the default configuration is to concrete the posts into the ground. Extra length is allowed to do this. The length is in accordance with the engineering.

Can I use timber posts?

Timber posts cannot be used as they will not comply with the engineering. However some people have veneered the posts afterwards with a thin layer of timber. This gives you the look of timber, with the strength of steel.

Where are the posts located – are they right in the corners?

In most cases, they are near the corner, but not right in the corners. They typically sit against the inside edge of the frame. In most cases, this is typically 64mm to 76mm in from the outside edge of the frame to the outside edge of the post. Exceptions can be overhangs etc.

Can I have an overhang?

Overhangs are available on certain types and sizes of carport.
On skillion carports, we can do overhangs along the span of the structure.
On gable carport, we can eaves (side overhangs) in some circumstances.
On hip roof and dutch gable carports, overhangs are a bit more tricky to do.
All of these are dependent on size, height, wind region and engineering.

What is the height at the peak or apex – How to calculate the height to the apex

On gable, hip roof and dutch gable carports there is a wall height and an apex height (do a drawing to show). When the height of a carport is specified, it is normally the eave height. It is to the top of the side of the carport. This is either to the top of the eave beam, or to under the eave beam (also called clearance height). To work out the maximum height which is at the apex, you need some basic information. The 2 first things you need are the roof pitch and the width or span of the carport. You will need to know the height to the top of the eave beam. Once you have this you need to multiply half the width of the carport by the amount of rise. In this example, the rise is measured per metre, depending on the roof pitch.

Here are the standard rises per meter for common roof pitches:

2 Degrees – 35mm per metre

5 Degrees – 88mm per metre

10 degrees – 176mm rise per metre

15 degrees –  264mm rise per metre

20 Degrees – 352mm per metre

Eg. 6metre wide carport, 20 degree pitch, 2.4m to top of eave.

Answer = 352mm (for 20 degrees) x 3m (half the width) = 1056mm

2.4m + 1.056m = 3.456m to the apex.

Always allow a little extra for the roof sheet and ridge capping. About 50-60mm would do on average.